What It's Like to Sail to Norway's North Cape, Europe's Northernmost Point

Fjords, whales, empty beaches, endless islands, and stunning hikes, this remote region inside the Arctic Circle is an escape worth planning for

What It's Like to Sail to Norway's North Cape, Europe's Northernmost Point

Author

Maya Toebat

Photographer

Sammy Van Cleemput

Born and raised in Leuven, Belgium, Maya Toebat is a journalist with great enthusiasm for hiking and sailing. You can find her on Instagram @mayatoebat.


North Cape Norway Quick Stats
Total distance: 350 nautical miles
Average time: 1 week
Direction: Alta to North Cape, and back south to Senja
Season: Between May and August

The midnight sun paints the sky in pink and orange as I stand on deck, salty spray kissing my face. It’s July. I'm in northern Norway, where the sun never sets and the wilderness reigns. Nervous anticipation mingles with excitement, since I am about to set sail to the North Cape with Sammy and Robin, a Belgian couple who lead all kinds of adventures with their sailboat Mencia—and whom I’ve only ever spoken to via Instagram.

Early in the morning, we leave from Alta, a city in north Norway. It seems like we’re the only sailboat out on the water and the further north we go, the fewer people and houses we see. At the anchorages where we sleep, a reindeer or an abandoned cabin is often our only company.

The thought of spending a week with strangers on a small boat was initially daunting, but as the days unfold, it turns out to be an amazing experience. It's incredible how quickly you can feel comfortable around people you just met.

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On day three, we reach the symbolic North Cape. A whale greets us while we sail around the cliffs to find a way to land. After encountering a platoon of irksome tourists at the cape, we decide to return to the secluded boat and set course back south. This time, we sail along the open sea, where a dense fog limits the view of the puffins a few meters away. In this cocoon, we even have time to get bored, an almost unsettling sensation in our hurried world.

When we get closer to land and hike to the peaks of Kvaløya, Sommarøya and Senja, I am more in my element again. Especially as we crest the final ridge to the summits and the view opens up before us. There, nestled amongst the countless tiny islands, I see our boat, peacefully at anchor. It is a moment of quiet triumph, looking down at the little sailboat, a symbol of the journey we were on.

Next year I will come back. ‘Let's go even further north, to the North Pole,’ we laugh, the possibilities stretching out before us like the endless horizon.

north-cape-sailing-maya-toebat-Mencia-at-anchor

What is the North Cape?

North Cape is the northernmost point of mainland Europe, rising 307 meters above the Barents Sea. For many travelers, it’s the furthest point of a road trip along the Norwegian coast. Tourists get there by camper, car, bus (from Honningsvåg), or even by bike. Once you get there, it feels like you’ve reached the end of the world. The only thing separating you from the North Pole is the Svalbard archipelago.

This sparsely populated region is best experienced by hiking, kayaking, whale watching or birdwatching in the endless daylight. There are some cabins and campings in the region. But Norway also allows wild camping, which allows you to truly appreciate the vastness of the Arctic.

"North Cape is the northernmost point of mainland Europe... once you get there, it feels like you’ve reached the end of the world."

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What you need to know before setting sail

The North Atlantic climate is known for its extremes. The mountainous terrain of the fjords results in rapidly shifting weather, often with little warning. To navigate this challenging area, you could make use of the waterways behind the islands, which offer some shelter. The wind predominantly comes from the northeast or southwest. These winds are either strong—requiring a smaller sail set up like a high-aspect jib or cutter jib, with an optional third reef in the mainsail—or almost non-existent, which requires patience, a reliable engine and extra diesel storage.

Even in summer, the weather is cold, making onboard heating important. Thanks to the midnight sun, solar panels work day and night. Furthermore, there are many anchorages for almost all conditions. Just make sure you have plenty of anchor chains and extra lines for side anchor points to deal with the deep waters.

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Everywhere We Stopped

Rolvsøya: At our first anchorage point, one day sailing from Alta, we were greeted by the golden sun and magic quietness, free from any other boats or houses. Yet, the island buzzes with wildlife. Sheep wander the Valfjordnæringen mountain, the marshes are alive with bird activity, and we were greeted by a solitary moose.

Sørøya: Leaving the mist of the open sea, we anchored at this island with a small village, where we attempted snorkelling (not recommended: the water is cold and relatively fish-free). The evening afterwards, we found shelter at a beautiful beach near Gamvik, where a Norwegian girl surprised us by swimming through the cold water to the boat.

Kvaløya: This rugged island with numerous branches invites exploration. We stayed for a rest day and went on land for some blueberry picking and a steep but rewarding climb from sea to the summit of Nordtinden. Up there, panoramic views stretched across the archipelago, a breathtaking tapestry of islands and skerries.

Sommarøy: "Sommarøy"—literally "summer island"—lived up to its name. We savored delicious cinnamon buns at the Prestvika Strandkafé in the sun, took a short hike to Hillsøytoppen, and even went for a spontaneous swim. There is also a small supermarket here if you need to stock up.

Senja: This vast island was our final destination, with its cute harbor in Botnhamn. Senja is a gem with dramatic mountains, fjords and fishing villages, and way fewer tourists than the archipelago of Lofoten. Go to the top of Segla or Barden for breathtaking views, or hike the ‘Senja på langs’, a multi day trail.

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Places we didn’t stop, but are worth visiting

Ingøya: One of the tiny islands that provides shelter for anchorage on the route to and from the North Cape. Embrace the pristine wilderness of this sparsely populated island by fishing or sea kayaking, and visit Fruholmen Lighthouse, the northernmost lighthouse in Norway.

Hammerfest: One of Norway's northernmost cities offers an Arctic experience with some urban comfort. Visit the charming Protestant Church, delve into the history of Arctic hunting at the Royal and Ancient Polar Bear Society museum, and indulge in a unique experience by renting a ‘Badstuflåte’ – a floating sauna.

Havøysund: A picturesque fishing village where you can escape the bustle. Hike to Hjelmsøystauren, a well-known bird mountain, or check out Roni Horn's art installation at Ørahaugen, which is part of the art route ‘Nasjonal turistveg Havøysund’.

Tromsø: A vibrant city with a charming city center, an architectural cathedral, the Tromsø University Museum, and plenty of shops, cafés and accommodation to refuel. This is a good base for exploring the surrounding area, for example heading out to the Lyngen Alps: amazing Alpine mountains, glaciers and fjords.

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Packing List

Summers in Northern Norway are short and unpredictable, with wind, fog and rain as well as sunny days up to 25 °C. Layers are needed, ranging from a down jacket, fleece and gloves to a hat, shorts and swimming gear for the occasional cold dip. For sailing, pack waterproof clothing, a windbreaker, good sunglasses and sunscreen (and binoculars for wildlife watching), but take your hiking boots as well to conquer the peaks on land. Camping gear might also come in handy for an inland excursion enjoying some wild camping.

Backpack: If your journey involves a mix of adventures like sailing, hiking, and camping, a well-designed backpack is key. My Osprey Kyte 66 has proven perfect; it easily accommodates camping gear, provides ample space for sailing essentials, and cleverly compresses down for easy storage on board a smaller vessel.

Camping gear: For years, my MSR Hubba Hubba tent, Vaude down sleeping bag, and Therm-a-rest sleeping pad have been my go-to setup for comfortable camping in the wild.

Rain gear: We didn’t see much rain, but Norwegian summers can be quite wet. A reliable rain jacket, like Patagonia Torrentshell, may also serve to keep you dry from the occasional spray while on the boat.

Sun protection: The strong reflections of the sun on the water necessitate high-quality sunglasses, like Vallon glacier sunglasses. The wind can also make it deceptively easy to get sunburned, so a hat and sunscreen are essential.

Hiking trousers: Quick-drying hiking trousers that allow for freedom of movement, like my Columbia Silver Ridge, prove their use both while hiking and while doing manoeuvres on the sailboat. The added benefit of converting to shorts is invaluable in Norway, where summer days can be surprisingly warm, but evenings quickly turn cool.

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Fleece: A lightweight fleece, for example of Jack Wolfskin, is perfect for staying comfortable on the boat and during camping trips when the evenings and mornings turn cool.

Down jacket: Windy passages call for layered clothing, with a warm down jacket providing insulation beneath a protective rain jacket. Shoes: For on the boat, non-marking sneakers are ideal. For hiking, both trail running shoes and more robust boots, like my Meindls, are suitable, as long as they provide good grip and support. The mountains of the Norwegian fjords are not extremely high, but rocky and steep. Hiking poles can give extra stability.

Extra tip: Take some local NOK cash for the honesty boxes at small harbours.

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What It's Like to Sail to Norway's North Cape, Europe's Northernmost Point

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Photographer

Sammy Van Cleemput

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