A Travel Guide to Winter Adventure in Quebec's Chic-Choc Mountains

Blood permeates under my fingernails. My left pinky and right pointer have gone completely numb. The plum undertones usually on my palm match the light hue of the red wine I’m struggling to hold at my favorite Montreal neighborhood tavern, Bar Henrietta. My friend, photographer Miguel McSongwe and I have just made it back into the city after a preening seven hour drive from up north in search of a deep winter. Barely.

The last few years, snow has been inconsistent out on the east coast of the U.S. Tired of sitting idly by while watching my friends ski in the Rockies, snowshoe in California, and explore British Columbia, I began to search for a mountain range on the eastern side of North America that could prove winter exists on the ice coast. When I brought my problems to all-pro, backcountry guide, Bryce Barnes, he knew exactly where I should go: “Have you looked into the Chic-Chocs?”

Les Chic-Chocs, an Overview

The Chic-Chocs are located in the Gaspésie region of eastern Canada, specifically Quebec. The peaks here are part of the Notre Dame mountain range, which run all the way down to Vermont. Folks here go from sea-fishing in the summer to ice-fishing on the frozen lakes in the winter. The towns, between mountains and the sea, offer ample opportunities for winter fun. Don’t miss the opportunity for an indulgent maple syrup tastings.

The mountain gets its name from the Mi’kmaq indigenous word, sigsôg, meaning “impenetrable barrier." The Chic-Chocs demand capitulation to the Quebec philosophy of plein air: the act of being outside, one with nature. If you aim to summit these Appalachien peaks, you must treasure the climb up just as much as the ride down.

The mountains are an hour-long plane ride from New York to Montréal-Trudeau International Airport, and then a gorgeous seven-hour drive north. We never talk about the coastal countryside in the winter. You’ll pass Italian smoke shops offering toscanellos, a honey-winery (miellerie) in Quebec City, and of course the rumbling ice sheets being churned by the waves to your left. These are the “unexpected intrusions of beauty,” Saul Bellow talked about.

The Chic-Chocs are the epitome of pleine air, not just for the province but for eastern Canada. Beyond the massive poutine platters, is a panoramic painting of pine forest, rushing streams, and mythical trails that lead up to wind-shaven peaks. Despite winter starting later and later due to the effects of climate change, the season glows in full bloom come February and March. Come here if you’re not ready for the fun parts about winter to be over. The March and April snow conditions allow for some airy, sunny and immersive mountain skiing, fat biking, and snowshoeing. It doesn’t hurt that maple syrup season goes from late February until April too.

What to Pack for a Winter Trip to the Chic-Chocs

Ready for adventure (and sweets), Miguel and I load our snowboard bags with our snow gear, puffer alpine jackets, boots, and equipment into the back of an adventure-ready Volkswagen Taos. My winter gear tends to land somewhere between functionality and style. I lean towards pieces that not only pack well but keep me comfortable and versatile as much in the mountains as they will in any city or town I pull into.

Good material and a proper layering system are major keys between a miserable and pleasant experience. Being technically equipped is a non-negotiable while exploring in the winter. Always make sure your base layers are fast-drying because whether you’re touring, snowbiking, snowshoeing, or even ice climbing, you’re working up a sweat and you don’t want that cold-moisture to linger.

Pants: I like my pants to be tough, but still flexible enough to keep a full stride while mountaineering. The Rab Equipment Khroma Kinetic pants are built for any switchbacks you might go up while in the mountains in the winter. They’re waterproof, breathable, and layered with a comfort soft mesh on the inside.

Baselayer: A fast drying, hooded, light fabric is a must as the first level of comfort on your skin. The Rab Equipment Force Hoody is perfect for this. Bonus: it's great for summer hikes as well.

Midlayer: I like a midlayer that feels like a fitted blazer, the exact fit offered by the Rab Equipment Modulus Hoody.

Outer Layer: No winter wardrobe isn’t complete without a hardy soulful, big puffer jacket. On most days, I find maximum comfort within the swaddling insulation of the Rab Equipment Cirrus Alpine Jacket. But if it’s dangerously windy, I opt for something with a more hearty exterior coating like the company’s Latok Mountain Pro Jacket. With that latter coat, I size up so that I can move freely even when I’m fully layered.

Headwear: Keeping my locs protected during the winter season is essential. Luckily, my friend Lexi Forsyth founded a great hat company back in 2020. My Switch Fleece Echo has become my go-to for its double layered, polar fleece material that’s both warm and comfy.

Gloves: The Rab Equipment Guide Lite gloves are my preferred solution for maintaining dexterity in below freezing conditions. Because I learned it the hard way: make sure to pack in some liner gloves for more complete warmth. Trust me, you'll be sad you skipped these when you stumble upon an absurdly beautiful vista and can’t feel your fingers enough to take a picture.

Footwear: No matter the condition, no matter the season, I’ve packed my G.H. Bass Emmons Leather Sneaker Boot up and down this continent. The leather not only looks good in the city but has kept my toes cozy while strapped in snowshoes or on a snowbike.

Backpack: The Rab Equipment Khroma Ski Pack is a reliable pack that’s built for the most technical jaunt. At 30 liters, it’s light enough to not weigh you down as you deal with a wide variety of terrain. The sturdy back panel is my favorite feature, it allows easy access to snacks or gear that I might need to take out.

Where To Stay in the Chic-Chocs

Gite du Mont Albert: A Hotel With a Cozy Cabin Feel

Offset and surrounded by thick spruce, maple, ferns and the smell of holiday cinnamon, the Gîte du Mont-Albert is a comfortable portal to a never-ending gilded noël within the parc national de la Gaspésie. The hotel’s laid back and tucked-in atmosphere makes it an ideal place to recharge after a full day on the trails. Just around the corner is the national park’s Discovery and Visitors Center where you can rent out any additional equipment your adventure calls for. Snowshoes, cross-country skis, down-hill skis and fat bikes.

Besides where it’s situated and the access to a mountain school (and their rangers and guides), it’s hard to beat the buffet-style breakfast spread every morning at the Gîte du Mont-Albert. I’m still dreaming of the crepe-pancakes. All that for $175 a night.

Other hotels in the area:

Auberge Château Lamontagne: In the coastal town of Sainte-Anne-des-Monts is the historic Auberge Château Lamontagne. The 1874 building has a regal pool table, majestic rooms, and is walking distance to the oceanic museum. The rooms are priced at around $140 a night.

Auberge La Seigneurie des Monts: A boutique hotel right off the coast that offers 17 country-comfort-style rooms at a price of $120 a night. The town of Sainte-Anne-des Monts, before driving into route 299 and into the mountains, is a great place to understand and see the Gaspésiene culture with its bistros, microbreweries, and even a chocolate museum.

The Best Chic-Chocs Trail for Snowshoeing: Le Petit Saut

Distance: 8.2 km (5 miles)
Elevation gain: 106 meters (347 ft)
Difficulty: Easy

The La Boussole trailhead greets you just past the entrance of the National park of Gaspésie. Le Petit Saut is a five mile (8.2km) long there-and-back trail that offers a charming introduction to Gaspésie. The trail runs parallel to the 40-mile Riviére Sainte-Anne, which cuts through Parc national de la Gaspésie, an old growth forest, then into the Chic-Choc mountains. The low intervention stewardship of the park allows the vegetation to bloom in the spring. Moss hangs beside the 64 clear pools along the river path for those looking for an equipoise cold plunge. Keep an eye out for beaver and moose tracks as you head east into the forest.

Due to its mainly flat progression, the trail makes for a beautiful afternoon snowshoe hike. Among the running salmon and trout in the conifer forest, I found ample moments to stop for meditation and forest bathing. I even spotted some white-tailed deer having a sip by the river bank.

Eager for some cross-country off the get-go? Most trails here are multi-purpose. You can take La Boussole to La Paruline hut (about two-and-a-half-miles) to catch views of surrounding lakes near Mont du Milieu peak.

The Best Chic-Chocs Trail for Cross Country Skiing: Lac Aux Américains

Distance: 18.2 km (11.3 miles)
Elevation gain: 475 meters (1558 ft)
Difficulty: Difficult

Right off the edge of the parking lot of the Parc National De La Gaspésie Centre de Découvertes et de Service is the slow-rising École de montagne building which leads into Lac aux Américains trail. Between the abundant snowshoe hares, moss flora and porcupines nestled in their arctic coats is an 11-mile-long tracked route. The peak goes up over a thousand feet in elevation gain. It’s a serious climb. Feel free to set your own pace and take what the day gives you.

The national park was put in place to preserve the forest, mountains and water systems. Despite the ever-persistent windchill, there’s an elated rhythmic shuffle going into spring. You’ll find plenty of locals on this trail, which is a great way to get oriented into French Canada (get your bonjours in order). The daring trek took us a full day. So make sure to break it up with plenty of water stops. If it’s snowing, which is a magical experience here with the conifer trees fawning under the snow spell, press down onto the ground with a little bit more intention as you glide on your skis.

The Best Chic-Chocs Trail For Riding Fat Bikes: La Serpentine

Distance: 10 km (6.2 miles)
Elevation gain: 270 meters (886 feet)
Difficulty: Intermediate

Time for a little boost on the battery pack. For $97 a day you can rent electric-pedal bikes at the Visitors Centre. Deeper along route 299 at the cusp of the Chic-Chocs is an open field that seeps into Ruisseau Isabelle trailway. The park rangers ride their snowmobiles over here regularly to keep the path wide enough for some Quebec style drifting fun in the snow. Here you’re constantly in a state of thrill brushing along.

I’ve yet to meet a fatbike I didn’t have fun on. Along the six-miles of adrenaline boosting turns and occasional slip outs you pass mountain skiers heading up on their pilgrimage of Mont Albert. My fingers remained wrapped around the handlebars as I charged into the trail, the air here has a sharp cheddar nudge to it. There’s maple sweetness in the pathway as I rode the donut-pumped bikes. I was a kid again, not noticing the frigidity of the season because I was too busy living the thrill in it. Blissful moments that call me back when life starts feeling static.

Being on a fatbike as snow keeps falling is a refreshment worth indulging in. It’s an electric social dance in the snow. What’s the quote about not having any fun while jet-skiing? Yea there’s none. Same sentiments apply here.

The Best Chic-Chocs Trail for Backcountry Skiing: Hog’s Back

Distance: 6 km (3.8 miles)
Elevation gain: 400 m (1312 ft)
Difficulty: Very hard!

Hog’s Back is the creme de la creme in backcountry starter packs. The alpine tundra here is topped with frozen ghost trees, draped with a secret field of powder that goes down into a trail that traverses the plateau. The mountain is a well preserved backcountry trail that zig-zags out of the treeline into a sea of peaks. Our field guide, Gregory at the Discovery Center told us, “make sure you know what you’re going to ski,” cause there can be a lot of rocks within the snow fields riding down.

The views were so beautiful we forgot to stay locked in. Miguel and I were absolutely entranced by the crunchy 400 meter climb up towards the sun. It was an epic and crispy ascent for two Black dudes coming from the states. Eager to make this wild winter wonderland our bread and butter, we rode our stoke into a gnarly couloir that dropped in off the eastern high ridge. Somewhere between fear and the circumstances of staying up too long in the day, we sent it.

That ride down took everything out of Miguel and I due to us not adhering to Gregory’s cautions fully (still recovering). We were racing to make it back to our vehicle by the time the sun dropped. Attempting to better position ourselves away from some trees, we came down and lost our speed. I ended up doing the rumba trying to get out of the deep pockets of powder. Oddly, thanks to the massive bulging rocks Miguel and I found our grounding again turning into a subversive catwalk. Under a blue evening fall, we saw the Taos.

What are the Chic-Chocs Like in the Summer?

As I was leaving many folks implored me to visit again in the summertime, “when the range is more alive,” they said.

During the summer, you can appreciate the many available hut to hut hikes, since there are so many campgrounds in the area. Camping, I’ve been told, is also a must thanks to dry, cool temperatures and thin crowds. You’ll still need windbreakers, liners, and a hoodie, but you won’t have to contend with snow.

There’s also a lot of mountain biking in the area, especially at Village Grande Nature. If you want to do some bikepacking, I’ve been told a full send of the Ultra Trail takes about nine days. Go in August and experience the only place south of the St. Lawrence river that you might find moose and caribou.

If you’re looking for something a lot more chill, head to the Ernest-Laforce open area. It’s a 360-degree panoramic submersion under spruce, fir, and vaudevillian evergreen that makes you a part of the show. On the Cascapedia lake you can go kayaking, paddleboarding, canoeing, or petal boating.