High-Tech Design, Lo-Fi Community Building With Purple Mountain Observatory

While the mountain town garage brand origin story remains as prevalent as ever in the outdoor industry, a number of new, niche labels are leveraging community-focused programming cities like New York and London to take the path less traveled to mainstream outdoor recognition. Purple Mountain Observatory for one, is worth a closer look.

Founded in 2023 and based in East London, PMO designs unisex outerwear and apparel for use on the trail and in town and has earned a following for both its unique designs—like color changing thermo-sensitive fabrics and bold, color blocked prints—and by fostering community through group hikes in the UK. The brand’s hybrid ethos is epitomized by items like the thermochromatic Obsidian Jacket and the more muted but equally technical Cyngus Gilet, each would look as at home on a runway as they do on the trail.

Purple Mountain Observatory’s memorable name has been drawing nearly as much attention as the technical pieces made under it. Above the town of Nanjing where the company’s clothing is made sits a peak called Zijin Shan—also known as Purple Mountain—and on it, China’s first modern observatory.

The juxtaposition of this powerful technology with the natural beauty inspired co-founder Matt Braun to take his 15 years of experience designing for brands like Abercrombie & Fitch, among others, to make something that felt more aligned with his own interests. “We liked this idea of exploration, [to create] something we could wear while exploring remote places but that [would] also work in everyday life,” he tells me.

When I asked Matt what he hopes people feel and experience when buying a piece of PMO gear, he quipped. “We hope at first, they cheer with joy and punch the air, as we do when we get samples through.”

But really, he says, PMO gear is supposed to make its wearer feel prepared, not just for adverse weather and elevation gains, but also for the mental elements of adventuring. “When you put that PMO jacket on you feel a sense of home, whether you’re on top of a mountain or standing waiting for the bus.”

As part of this mission, Braun explicitly sets out to produce designs that will work for bodies of any gender. “Our pieces are intentionally cut with versatility in mind, room for layering, movement, and adaptability across different body shapes.” He says the company is thrilled to see more and more women embracing the gear. “It reinforces our belief that outdoor and technical clothing doesn’t need to be boxed into rigid categories.”

Joe Barrowclift, who handles marketing and PR for PMO, is aware that the company has benefitted from interest in the aesthetic of the outdoors over the last few years. But he is working to ensure the brand outlasts the Gorpcore trend. "Our focus is on longevity—building something that lasts, with meaningful narratives and considered design,” he said. “If you’re always chasing trends, you’re never leading.”

Many Gorpcore centric brands have a standoffish “cool kids table energy” that can feel daunting to approach. And the barrier to entry for would-be outdoor enthusiasts is sizable, especially when it comes to acquiring and learning to properly use gear. In an effort to right that course, PMO has been using their platform to lead group hikes around the U.K. to encourage people to get out and find a welcoming community in the outdoors.

After its first community hike in April of 2024, the brand wrote a recap of the day: “A successful romp in the English hillside with dogs and snacks and flash photos of happy hikers enjoying the idyllic hills of Southeast England.” It was about as unpretentious as any hike can be. I immediately clocked the brand as something different. Approachable, inclusive, and proving it.

PMO has continued to host community hikes alongside Common Ground, a small UK based group that aims to connect like-minded people to foster healthy relationships with the outdoors. Of course, these group events are successful because the clothing itself attracted people in the first place. The duality of the brand sticks with me-cool enough for London, technical enough for the Peak District. Stylish enough for fashion week, down to earth enough for group trail walks.

I’ve been virtually following the PMO team as they make their rounds in New York and Paris showcasing the new collection. The reception has been overwhelmingly positive, he says, which has made him excited about what the brand has in store for the future. “On the product side, we’re pushing even further into material innovation and refining our silhouettes. Plus, there are some exciting collaborations in the works…but we’ll keep those under wraps for now.”

One item they can discuss: the brand’s first official shoe. The Calyx, coming this May, was developed in collaboration with Vibram and features its Strat-X technology—a thermoformed rubber compound sheet moulded for performance. “As a bespoke campground waterproof shoe, it’s a natural extension of PMO’s design ethos.”

As our interview was concluding, I asked the pair if there was anything else they’d like to add. Joe reminds us to “do something that scares you every day” and Matt says to “stay dry.”

I think they have a jacket for that.

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