Ocean's Embrace: How Lena Kemna Uses Freediving to Sharpen Her Surf Skills

Lena Kemna decided to devote her life to surfing after being dwarfed by a wave in Bali, Indonesia. Despite being a novice, completely unable to duck dive, she managed to catch the giant and emerged transformed. “This wave gave me a very non-rational, all-encompassing sensation,” she recalls. “I already loved surfing, but whatever this was, I liked it even more.” Back in her home counry of Germany, the longing for the ocean and that specific feeling grew, leading Lemna from studies in the Netherlands and an exchange semester in Australia to finally settle in Portugal.

Realizing the importance of breath control in surviving massive waves, she discovered apnea and freediving. Initially a tool to enhance her surfing safety, freediving quickly became a passion in its own right. Guided by former world champion Jesper Stechmann in Malta, her freediving career took off in 2022.

This dual focus requires a delicate balance. And at the moment, surfing takes center stage again. Kemna has recently been dedicated to the legendary waves of Nazaré, which require a different approach than anything she’s surfed before. We spoke with her about the unique challenges she’s experienced in her first big wave season and the hunt for the perfect swell. An edited version of our conversation is below.

Compared to surfing wild waves, freediving seems a serene experience. What's it like to be deep under the ocean’s surface?

I think and feel very little when I’m underwater. On one hand, I’m extremely relaxed, in order to slow down my heartbeat and let my instincts take over. But it's not simple relaxation, it’s a combination of being very free and extremely focused at the same time.

There’s also a difference between fun freediving and depth training. If I’m exploring caves, shipwrecks or observing wildlife, I can enjoy the experience without focusing on technique. But when I train to go deep, I don't wear a dive mask and I keep my eyes closed. At first, I didn't understand why people would do that—going into the ocean, hanging onto a line, and not being able to see. I thought it was strange and pointless. But then I tried it, and it really grew on me. When you’re 40 meters deep for two or three minutes, the pressure is immense. It feels like the ocean is crushing you. My stomach is pulled in, and I feel the pressure everywhere. Freediving is a profound experience for me, almost the opposite of being in space.

How does your freediving practice supplement your surfing?

Actually, the ideal conditions for each are opposite: freediving requires calm, clear water, while surfing thrives on big waves. To be honest, these two passions create a practical conflict in my life, mostly timewise. In both sports, training and recovery take a lot of commitment. This makes it a constant dilemma to decide where to focus my energy.

That said, there is a connection. Breath holding benefits surfing. Being comfortable in rough ocean conditions as a surfer enhances freediving. One of the biggest impacts freediving has had on my life, and even on my surfing, is the principle that it's supposed to be fun. It sounds obvious, but it's easily forgotten. Freediving is counterintuitive in a way, so in stressful situations, the mindset is: "I’m here because I want to be here. This is a good kind of stress." I often remind myself of this in surfing, especially when things get tricky. Then I think, "Hold on, I like this. I'm here because I want to be here."

How else do you deal with fear when surfing big waves?

I experience fear differently in surfing compared to freediving. I get much more nervous surfing. I often have trouble sleeping the night before.

Sticking to a strict routine helps: I collect my gear the night before, I don't eat in the morning (I hate the thought of a wipeout on a full stomach), I do a light warm-up and stretches, and I avoid other people. But even with all that, my heart races before I hit the water because I never know what to expect.

Freediving is different. If your heart is racing, you won't dive well. It’s more of an experience between you and yourself. You go when you feel ready. Surfing, on the other hand, has an adrenaline component. It's wilder and louder. It requires a "just go for it" mentality, catching the waves as they come and pushing your limits.

That’s a challenge, because I'm not really an adrenaline junkie. I'm not doing crazy maneuvers on the big waves I catch. I simply love to let the waves do their thing and follow their energy. Sometimes, I also skip surfing, even when the waves are good. People say "when in doubt, paddle out”, but I do the opposite. If I have a bad intuition that day, I don't test it.

People can follow your journey on social media. How important is photography and crafting your image?

Social media is both a blessing and a curse. Posting photos of big waves has earned me respect as a surfer, both locally in my home spots and when I go to a new place. I don't have to fight so much to be seen because I am somewhat of a public figure. However, since I don't compete and I don't have 100K+ followers, that only goes so far. I feel like most people want that fixed number more than the story behind it. Most brands are no different.

Of course, there is a group of people and brands who understand what I am trying to do: be a professional surfer that’s equally focused on freediving; tell nuanced stories of adverse conditions, stay away from competitions or TikTok. Many large brands have told me it´s a risky path, and many people in the surf industry have shown resistance. But for me, it's the only way.

For this path, the quality of images is important. And I enjoy expressing stories visually. Recently, I started a YouTube channel which allows me to move even further away from the quickly consumed Instagram content. Of course, it’s hard sometimes, organizing filmmakers, finding people you can rely on, getting funding for producing high-quality content and aligning it all with the conditions of the ocean. Balancing being a model, a marketer and an athlete. Of course, there are some days when I just want to surf. It’s a rocky path, but for now, I am excited to carve it out.